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Good Living Reviews The Four In Hand Bar
Tucked away in the back streets of Paddington, a low-key local welcomes all.
They say one in the hand is worth two in the bush. But what of Paddington's Four in Hand? Surely this is a bar where your odds are quadrupled, not least because there's a Toss the Boss challenge from 6 to 7pm every Sunday.
A neighbourhood local with all the charm of an English pub, the Four in Hand completes the Empire associations with its polished timber bar, quirky locals and televisions screening the footy. It is friendly and unassuming, the type of pub to guzzle a bloody mary on a Sunday afternoon without so much as a raised eyebrow.
But half the fun comes from remembering how to find the pub at the bottom of the hill.
A maze of lanes, tree-lined streets and crumbling footpaths, Paddington is not an easy suburb to navigate without the benefit of local knowledge.
It's always a gamble, guessing which streets will be one-way and hoping the next right-hand turn will send us cascading down a hill towards "the Four". And if your last visit was in the middle of a drunken Anzac Day two-up fest, the odds are even longer.
It's hardly fair to judge a watering hole through beer-goggled eyes but there are only fond (albeit fuzzy) memories of the Four in Hand. It is one of Paddington's gems, a pub that has remained true to its neighbourhood origins, resisting the switch to stainless steel coldness in favour of timber and black-and-white tiled walls.
The bar juts out into the centre with staff serving the bar flies from three sides. You can happily pull up a stool at the bar and not feel obliged to move. But don't try this when the striped-shirt Paddos flock for a pre-rugger tipple or a Toss the Boss session. In their efforts to get sloshed, you might get splashed.
The Four in Hand welcomes oldies and yuppies alike. It's an eastern suburbs stalwart, a bar where dads and sons drink and cheer the footy, but a pram wouldn't be out of the question, especially next door in the posh-nosh restaurant.
As we order nibblies, a mezze plate ($12) and chips with aioli ($6) to munch at the bar, the classic weekend lunchers descend - squeaky clean in crisp shirts, ironed jeans and unscuffed sneakers.
In this low-key place you can mingle with the locals and feel right at home. The poker machines are tucked away and there is a handful of high tables for smokers between the front bar and the back lounge.
When it is heaving, you're shoulder to shoulder with tycoons and imports, but you can't lose control, as the Four in Hand favours a neighbourly vow of silence well before midnight.
Clara Iaccarino
April 10, 2007
Sydney Moring Herald
Good Living
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